Ok so this will be my second build and I am doing a mini board. I have ordered everything with a by it. I just wanted advice if I should do anything different or ways to make it better.
This is my plan for the build.
2x Charging Port
Not sure which one to get but I am trying to keep it on the cheaper side around 100
(I bought this used from someone on the forum)
Greetings from Denmark,
Last year I build my first electric longboard, with inspiration and information from you guys! Thanks for all the amazing builds and information avalible on this forum, its amazing
I have been riding my board for a year now, and borrowed it to my cousin a few weeks ago. He road it for a few miles, and of course fried all the electronics That gave me a new opportiúnity to create something new and hopefully better.
So far my build will contain:
- 1 Turnigy G160 245kv motor
- 30 Samsung 25R 2500mAh (10S3P)
- 1 40A 10S BMS
- 1 Vedder Antispark Switch with 40A/50A fuse
- 4 83mm ABEC 11 clones
- Nunchunk with Bluetooth
- A VESC-X or VESC 6.0 (your thoughts on this would be very appreciated)
- Custom deck
- 14T and 36T HTD pulleys and belt
I designed the deck with Inkscape a few days ago, and milled it out with my X-Carve from Inventables - a most usefull machine! The deck is made of some glulam I had in stock - not sure if it is strong enough?
It came out pretty neat, here is a picture of it with some wheels and trucks mounted!
I plan to cut out a pocket for the batteries and all the electronics, and build a cover/lid that fits right on. All done on my X-carve of course
I am planning to cut out som risers for the trucks in some high quality wood, and making a motor mount out of some 5mm aluminium profiles I have lying around.
What do you think so far, anything I could improve? Looking forward to hear your opiones
So I read on a thread somewhere about someone using a 3d printed hold down for the vesc wires an bottom of board...
I can't find the thread again and can't remember the members name...
Does anyone have an stl file?
I would like to run the 6 phase and 2 sensor wires flat across into enclosure...hold down would be nice...any help?
Ok so I am wanting to upgrade and add another 4s 5000mah but, this time I want to make it where I can just plug and go instead of taking the batteries out of the case is there any easier way to do this. I was thinking of a bms but I am not sure which one to get and how to set it up.
Been in a few discussions, and after initially wanting to try hub motors for my first build, have decided to go with a single belt system instead—I'm interested in a simple setup (translated as "I'm not a rocket scientist, so the more plug and play, the better")
I already have a Space Cell 3 Pro (10s3p) with on/off, charging, etc. I think it has an xt60 connector for the vesc.
MOTOR / DRIVETRAIN
6374, I've been told. I'm leaning towards the SK3, but certainly open to other options... I'm not a huge fan of the way it looks (I know that's not important to some & I get that.). Do all 63mm motors for esk8s have the same screw patterns, or do I need to match certain motors with certain mounts? I want Caliber II 50's, so I'm interested in mounts for those trucks that DO NOT require mods to the truck. How about ratios? I'm pretty confused about which ratio to buy, but I'm about 185lbs. I live in Florida, so hills are pretty much non-existent. I don't need crazy torque. Are flywheel clones a good choice, or is the consensus for the real deal—or Kegels? Oh yeah... I'm hearing 190kv as well... good?
Thanks for any pointers offered before time.....
so under throttle AND breaking my motor runs on, then off, blipping for maybe quarter of a second then the torque returns for a second, then repeat. Same under breaking, resistance for about a second then no resistance for a quarter of second (approx) then repeat. This problem appeared to start after i had used my board a dozen times.
DIY electric skateboard VESC
10s (2x5s) 8000mah lipo
GT2B in baby buffalo form
Thanks for any advice
I'm planning to build my first electric longboard and I've done all the research that is needed.
The only thing is what batteries to choose. I was planning on 10s4p. Would these batteries be enough for a dual motor/dual vesc setup with a 60A BMS? is 10C discharge rate enough or should I get a higher discharge rate battery? I'm trying to build the highest capacity battery pack with these cells http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18650-sanyo-ncr18650ga-3500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html
Thank you for even reading this, so not to waste more of your time I shall be summary and as precise as possible.
- Board: Standard Raptor 1.0 Dual drive
- Problem(s): Sudden loss of motors, 1 spinning slowly only other one dead.
- Found/fixed: I opened the board and felt a cable was mooving a little too freely,took shrink tube off, saw disconnected wire from vesc. Resoldere it, hope in a functional matter.
- Still not working
- Hooked up to the BLDC tool. checked for error'rs. None found.
Tried motor detection, motor detection failed (read a bout the r-spec shorting out often, next step taking motor aapart.)
I believe it to be the motor, since I toock it donwhill a lot, and therefore exeeding the speed I was supposed to on this set up I think. Still If I dont engage the trottel the motor produces current (right?). I mean board goes 40ish and I went 50-60 regularely. If somone has a different Idea, it would be very welcome. Also, will I allways have the risk of blowing my ride, when I go donwhilling with it ?
Anyone ever have this happen to them?
Went for a ride down the beach,about a 7 mile stretch,few hills up and down to get there nothing too steep.
Check my wheels every day,keep them just tight enough but not too tight,use the suplied washers on both sides.
The bearing friction burned through the plastic and now touches the bearing on the other side of the wheel!!
Can't see how this happened "fualty wheel" maybe?
Really fucking annoying as you can't just buy one wheel to replace it!!
Hello all i want to start off by saying i love my motors and speed controllers I purchased from torqueboards and I had a great experience with them and there remarkably fast shipping. I also am very impressed with the quality of there products so far!!!
However upon inspecting these guys I noticed the power wire on 3 of the 5 vescs was being punctured by the backside of the hall sensor port!! im glad I noticed this befor powering up to do some testing tomorrow!! I solved this issue by cutting the shrink wrap and routing the power wires on the outside of the shrink wrap.... just thought i would share this with anyone as I foresee some possible issues here.
comparison between correctly trimmed pins and not.
thanks for reading hope this helps.
Apologies if this is a stupid question.
I currently have a single belt drive 170kv 1000w 5065 running off a 10s1p 90wh battery. Can I swap out the drive system for a single hub motor? I have a short flat commute so torque is not a big issue, neither is speed.
Looking to purchase a complete board preferably, or a set of most parts minus deck, etc. Located in Sydney, AU.
Feel free to drop offers on the thread or PM me!
One of my Raptor motors has shifted on its shaft and slips quite a bit while there is any resistance on the wheel. There is a big gap between the pulley and the motor mount and the shaft has regressed into the motor.
Here is a short video.
Do I just have to take the whole thing apart and try to re-seat everything? Any help is appreciated!
I am in the process of building a 4wd board and would like to implement the capability to switch between 4wd to 2wd.
i understand that i will probable half to come to a full stop but i have a few specific questions to ask everyone!!
I will run the front tied together with one master and same for the rear so all ill half to do is switch one bank of escs into some sort of coast mode.
My questions are....
- Will I need to come to a full stop when switching?
- Are the escs and motors safe to put into a coasting mode while not putting forth any work? i know if you have a typical rc car speed controller off and coast down a hill the voltage created will blow the esc... is this the same story with the vesc?
- How to I actually implement this? I will be using the wii nunchuck setup so instead of using z for reverse how can I go about assigning it to put the front vescs into a coast mode of some sort?\
Hope this is not too confusing and i want to thank everyone in advance... thank you !!!!!
I wanted to run my latest project by you all to gather some input and ideas on a few of the build details.
I'm going to attempt to take this board on planes with me weekly with the batteries removed and kept in my carry-on bag.
Planned major components:
1. Torqueboards 33" CF deck with integrated enclosure.
2. Vesc-X (2)
3. A123 LiFePO4 cells (36)
4. Three small 12S BMS(s) bypassed for charging only.
4. Torqueboard hubs or Carvon V3 hubs. Both should arrive next month so probably which ever comes first.
My biggest concern at this point is how to navigate the battery build around the following issues.
Problem: 100whr battery capacity limit on planes.
Solution: Create 3 separate 12S1P battery packs.
Problem: 0.15mm Nickel strips don't support enough current to spot weld the pack together while still using the A123 cells to their full potential.
Solution: Soldering columns of 6 cells end to end using a PVC jig then using 1/2" wide tinned copper braid to connect pairs of 6 cells to get 3 separate 12S1P battery packs.
Problem: A simple, safe and reliable battery charging method is needed.
Solution 1: Squeeze three small 12S BMS's into the enclosure (bypassed for charging only).
Solution 2: No BMS and just remove the batteries for balance charging on my Thunderpower TP1430 when I'm home.
Let me know what u all think about my proposed solutions and any thoughts or concerns you have related tof my build.
Is anyone here from Los Angeles with voltage meter who could help out with my build ? I've got wicked battery setup and while connecting everything together it started sparking for 2 seconds and stopped. Is there anyone here who could help tomorrow and has voltage meter and knows something about batteries ?
I'm trying to connect my 5065 motors with sensors to my VESC-X's. From what I understand, if you run it sensorless, then the 3 phase wires don't matter so much as long as the motor spins the proper way. If you don't wire up the phase wires properly, along with the sensor wires, you can screw something up.
Does anybody know if the colored wires from these motors are standard as far as phasing and hall effect sensors go? Also, the Enertion VESC-X has the three phase wires that are unlabeled, AND they have a 6 pin connector for the sensored motors, but it seems that most of our motors have 5 pins. The schematic from the motor is labeled: Pos (red wire), U (yellow wire), V (white wire), W (blue wire) and Neg (white wire). The pins on the VESC-X are labeled 5V, H1, H2, H3, T and GND. From the little bit of research I've found, U,V,W are the European equivalent of H1,H2,H3. Can anybody confirm that?
Just sent back my Boosted board dual plus V2. Its a nice board but it doesn't do what I want it to do for the 1700 bucks I spent. The range is terrible. If I am going up a hill I can drain the battery in ten minutes and i want more speed than the 20-22mph it tops out at. I am looking for a board that can do about 30mph with a range of 25 miles. I reached out to the diy electric skateboard guys and they sent me this list of parts for the most high performance build they offer.
Dexter (DIY Electric Skateboard)
Apr 19, 4:24 PM CST
Here's the kit that we discussed.
Any questions, let us know.
1 Highest Performance Kit with Dual Motor Belt Drive Setup (Great for Hill Climbing)
Dual Mech Kit + 12S4P Full Electric Conversion Kit (Only need deck)
Dual Mech Kit $299.99 http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/torqueboards-dual-motor-mechanical-kit/
6355 190KV * $90ea $180.00 http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/electric-skateboard-motor-6355-190kv/
2.4ghz Mini Remote $60.00 http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/torqueboards-2-4ghz-mini-remote-controller/
VESC * $99.99/ea $198.00 http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/vesc-the-best-electric-skateboard-esc/
VESC XT90 Parallel $8.99 http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/vesc-the-best-electric-skateboard-esc/
VESC Canbus $6.99 http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/vesc-canbus-connector/
VESC Male to Male $1.99 http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/male-male-servo-connector/
12S4P $450.00 IN PRODUCTION - ETA 1 month
$1,205.96 TOTAL VALUE
$30.00 USA SHIPPING
$1,235.96 TOTAL PRICE
As far as the deck goes I want something on the shorter end with an kick tail so its easier to point it in different directions. I really like this one so far and the diy guys said it would work with their new battery enclosure https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/decks/71837/jet-2016-vulcan-kick-35-5-longboard-skateboard-deck-w-grip
The purpose of this post is to find out if anyone thinks this is a good idea lol. If anyone has any suggestions of different parts to use or personal experience with the products above a million thanks! Any suggestions or feedback is greatly appreciated!
I've been experiencing some problems with my build and my theory is that the problem lies in the connection between Motor and Vesc (the 3 pins): the female part of the Vesc is too large, reducing the contact surface (I found some "burning" marks on the male connectors, which seems to verifiy this hypothesis, I think?)
Anyway, my idea is to add some copper wires to tighten the connection without losing conductivity/contact surface. Can anyone tell me if that's fine for both Vesc and Motor? Here's what I mean:
I'd add some heat shrinking tubes around it.
Thanks in advance!
I dont know if its just me but last week when i got home i pulled out my loop key to power down put my board standing up then my 5 year old came running out so he was asking me about the parts he pointed at the xt90 on the socket i said to myself if he puts his finger in there bang bang,so the part that should be on the board is the anti spark and you should be pluging in the socket it will do the same job and you cant put your finger on it.
I'm just curious how people charge their longboards. For examples: Do you charge them by taking the battery/ies out and charging them externally or charging them through a plug on your board like any production electric longboard out there? If you do the later do you think you could enlighten me how you do it as I am curious and it will also make charging much easier.
P.S. I'll be running 2x 5s 5000mah batteries in series
I am developing a new Esk8 system that will have many useful features both with the remote and and on board PCB and I'd like to use the UART communication to control the motors so I just wanted to ask:
1) what is the format of the protocol for example: my one goes like that ATTN then addres < Data>
so if I would write it it'd look something like that to set motor speed to 100 ATTNMSpeed<100>
2) I see there is an arduino library for that but I don't know the values of the current range
3) Do I have to set motor current to 0 before applying brake current or it does that automatically?
Thanks for your time.
Some time ago I purchased this BMS with no actual way to mount an E switch but there are a few solder testing points on it that I suspect may have the possibility to shut down or turn the battery back on does any body know or have any experience with it?
Here is the BMS I Bought:
I'm using a build with a VESC and a standard 2.4 Ghz transmitter with receiver. The connection cable between VESC and Receiver (3pin servo cable), however, sometimes looses connection on the receiver side - I guess due to vibrations. On the receiver side it's just hold in place via a plug. This is quite dangerous at high speed. Did someone have the same problem? How did you solve it? Directly soldering to the pins of the receiver?
We are building an electric longboard with a team of university students. Our goal is to make an electric longboard with different driving modes. Because of this, we are working with an Arduino which communicates with the VESC via UART.
One of the modes that we are using now is just straightforward by using an RC controller. We were also thinking about a way to limit the acceleration of the board (maybe in a different mode, so the user has the option to chose this or not). Furthermore, it is also important to limit the jerk (derivative of the acceleration).
We were thinking of an algorithm for applying this, but it's deffinitely not as easy as it looks. Due to this, I started thinking that we are probably not the first ones to think about this idea. So my question is: is there already a good control mode in BLDC-tool that limits the acceleration (and variation of the acceleration to drive smoothly)?
While searching for my ideal commuter board, I got a Benchwheel Penny Board on closeout, and setting aside quality, it actually has pretty close specs to what I'm after. So I am looking at transforming it into more of a DIY, so that I can consistently replace parts as they wear out. So far, I have transferred the enclosure onto a new deck, and swapped out the trucks, [ apart from the rear hanger ].
So, the basic penny board spec is:
10s1p battery of Samsung 18650 cells.
n5065 170kv / 1000w sensorless single motor
48 / 16 pulley using HTD3 225 belt
I'm hoping to pretty much keep the enclosure and remote as is, and would initially concentrate on the motor / drivetrain. Where I'm up to so far is;
Benchwheel offer replacement motors, but I'm hoping to be able to source good quality replacement motors elsewhere, but so far I have not been able to locate an alternative source. DIY only have a 190kv 5055 which I've been advised is too light. If I can't locate an alternative source, I'm not sure I want to plow any money into this project.
Wheels. I'd like to be able to use Abec or similar wheels, but after reading through this board, there is no current product that works on the benchwheel, [ it uses HTD3 ] so to use alternative wheels, it looks like the whole drivetrain would need replacing. DIY and a few others offer good kits, but again, without a good motor supplier, it may be a waste of money.
This is my first thread, so I'll try to post a pic of the board in it's current form
Anyone in Philly down for a meetup and group ride?
These are some questions I was wondering about concerning people on this forum.
First one, super simple. Goofy vs Regular
- Goofy (Right foot forward)
- Regular (Left foot forward)
- Both (Either work)
Votes are public.
Second one, how often do you check the forum? Meaning how often do you check in and look at your unread and new tabs.
- Every day religiously
- Every other day
- A few times a week
- A few times a month
- I have never checked the forum
Votes are public.
Third, how many boards have you built? Not the total number of board you own but how many have you created in total
- 7+ (I am addicted and my wallet is begging me to stop)
Votes are public.
Fourth, do you wear protective gear when riding? If so what?
- Helmet only
- Helmet and elbow/knee/wrist pads/gloves
- Full face helmet only
- Full face helmet and full protective gear
Votes are public.
Fifth, do you skateboard? Meaning do you do flat ground tricks and/or tranny/skatepark skating?
- Flat ground only
- Flat ground and skatepark skating
- Skatepark skating/tranny only
- Dont skate at all
Votes are public.
Sixth, hubs or belted system or direct drive gears?
- Belt drive
- Direct drive gear system
- Pulse jet engine
Votes are public.
Those are all my burning questions for now, if you have any more you would like to see reply below and I will add another poll .
I am running a 6374 230kv motor, 2x 6s 5000mah batteries in parallel for a total of 6s 10000mah. I just got a vesc and wanted some opinions on vesc setup. Here is what I got so far.
Motor max: 80a
Motor min(regen): -30a
Batt max: 50a
Battery min(regen): -6a
Are these good settings? I just don't want to fry anything.
I've been sitting on this one for awhile. after about 6 mo. It has taken shape.
42" decoy supply double drop cut to a favorite shape.
42° Buck 195mm trucks
Dual Ripba mounts with 50mm plates
97mm Abec Clones
Split Low Pro V2 enclosure
Dual Maytech 5065 sensored 220kv motors
Chi Boards 8s5p battery
Bestech 8s 80a continuous bms