new to the community and i've been snooping around for days.
I saw casey Neistat riding one of those boosted boards and i was like "Dang i gotta get me one"
Unfortunately/fortunately my bank account doesnt agree at the moment #poorcollegefreshman
Anyways, i decided, hey, my major is Electrical Engineering, it would give me some good experience if i tried to build one myself. and my search brought me here.
WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR:
References and Guidance
WHAT I INTEND TO USE THE BOARD FOR: Get around campus mainly with a little bit of speed 15-20mph, climb like 10-15 degree hills. i'm about 180 pounds currently and dropping fast. so by the time im done (im guessing a couple of weeks) i should be around 175pounds.
My budget id say is around ~$600 and i guess i could go a bit up or down if needed/required.
I know nothing about decks or any of the sort. so im hoping the community can jump in on this one.
I live in upstate New York if anyone is trying to lend me a hand
Thank you! I look forward to responses/suggestions.
Just planning layout of my single drive build. I've got a Comet Loki which is a drop through board. Gone for 90mm wheels to raise it up a little but just checking ideas for clearance. I'll be making my own mount so can be flexible with placement. Initially thinking out the back but how close to the centre of the truck and the ground is OK?
This looks doable. Will have to order different belts as only have 255 at the moment.
Hi hi was just on my way on ordering A Vesc when I game across this
Think they are uk based which is perfect for me cuz Im in EU and price is very Good campares to others but the thing is I have Done quite a bit of reasearch here on the forum but No one has ever mention this one? It seems legit but is it? Has any one tried it? Does it look good? Because I dont want to spend A big amount of money on something untested so please people check it out!
Some short facts in the beginning: This build was made by me and is (of course) improvable. After building there are some things I would change, but I’ll come to this later on.
Since I am a poor student and also don’t have access to 3D printing, CNC, or other “heavy” machines I did it really DIY style at all.
So how come the 350$? Here’s my build in a nutshell:
Turnigy SK3 5055 430kv Brushless Outrunner Motor ------------ 50$
Turnigy 5000mAh 3S 20C Lipo pack (2x, so 6S) ------------------ 40$
Alien 120A 2-7S EV Mini ESC BEC -----------------------------------65$
Alien 2.4Ghz Electric skateboard remote control ------------------50$
Quanum E4 Cube 50W Balance Charger ---------------------------20$
Alien motor mount with Pulley system--------------------------------120$
Toolbox with a grab handle from a hardware store ------------------5$
Miscellaneous: these things aren’t important if you either have them already or don’t wanna buy them
Cell (Voltage) checker 2$
HXT4mm Battery Harness Series Cable 2$
Electronic remote switch (LED ON/OFF) 5$
Dual Ultra Bright LEDs (Red/white for back/front) 5$
So here’re some advantages and disadvantages of my build.
The motor has way to less torque. It gives me great top speed but I need to push before the motor can push me.
The tool box neither looks good nor provides good air circulation or safety for the components. Also I don’t have a switch so plugging cables is necessary.
The good points being the lightweight and the small size of the board. The motor provides amazing speeds when having enough torque!
And, my main goal, the board is cheap but functional! If you have access to machines you can also build the enclosure and the mount by yourself to save another 60$.
Improvements: Buy a 63mm motor instead of a 50mm one
Buy a good enclosure with air circulation
A switch and charging ports would be an extra!
This is my first article, if you’ve any suggestions please let me know! Pics will follow and links too if requested.
The 18650 batteries made by Panasonic for Telsa are rumoured to be different than their commercial 18650 batteries. Apparently the Tesla batteries have a longer life.
Anyway, Aries RC took on of those cells and pulled it apart. Here's the video:
I finally put my first rig together over the weekend and I discovered that when I tensioned the belt even slightly, the motor would start emitting a high pitched metallic whining noise at high RPM.
Here are some things I have done to diagnose the problem:
- Changed from a 260 kV motor to a 190 kV motor. Both produce the whining noise.
- Tried my motor on a friend's board, no whining noise.
- Changed the wheel and wheel pulley with a buddy's, and the motor still produced the whine.
- Changed the length at which the motor pulley sat on the motor shaft. No noticeable reduction in noise.
- Unscrewed the motor mount screws slightly (Effectively removing all tension on the belt), and the noise immediately stopped. Bingo!
When there is no tension on the belt at all, the motor purrs nicely, even at high RPMs. The second I add any tension and screw in the motor mount screws tight, the motor start whining terribly.
It's also worth noting that the motor pulley and the wheel pulley are very nicely aligned. I initially thought this might be the problem, but changing the alignment didn't have any noticeable reduction in noise.
Anyone have any ideas what this might be?
It's spring break now, so I spent a bit of time working on my board. I got it up and running again after my last speed controller shorted out...
I went ahead and bought a VESC-X because I wanted the extra protection. It's doing well so far. Total, I have about $300 into the board. $110-ish for one of the old hummie motors, $130 for the VESC-X, $40 for a cheap longboard from eBay (perfect for testing when you don't want to ruin your nice board), $12 for battery sleds, $30 for a 6-bay cell charger, and a couple dollars for miscellaneous parts. Right now it goes about 15mph max. It has a range of a couple miles; I haven't tested it properly. My battery is 9s2p (i know), and is made from scavenged cells (I got them for free, so I don't really care how last they long..). Max draw is around 15 amps currently. I have a ton more cells to put on (I have at least 75 more cells), but I don't have many more sleds. When I actually put these on, this board will have insane range (15 miles at least), and the max current will be much higher, but the board will also weigh quite a bit . I have a spot welder for the cells, and I will put together a decent battery ASAP. I was going to do this over spring break, but Enertion decided they would wait 7 years before they shipped the battery enclosure I bought from them...
Anyway, here's some pics! This is what $300 and some free time in between classes at college gets you:
Once I get a decent battery built, I will actually be doing some testing for a really awesome design that I think you guys are going to love. I don't want tell anyone what it is yet, but it's gonna be awesome. Hopefully I can get a decent prototype over summer. Stay tuned.
Hey guys I just picked up a new vesc and I connected it to my E-board everything good and then I give it a quick rev and also everything normal until the motor picks up speed and gets in the high rpms. A loud ringing sound is produced from the motor until I back out of the remote control
So I go to my pc open up bldc tool and when I try to connect it says my firmware is too old and that I need a programmer I have no idea what to do please help me
I'll attach a foto of the message I got below
I'm concerned about the temperature of my VESC, today I went for a short ride (4.4km) and the temp reached 55ºC (131ºF), it might not sound that bad but it's -11ºC (12.2ºF) outside, which is kinda of cold...
The peak occurred going up at the end of a slight hill (maybe 10m over 1km), just going downhill the VESC was already reaching 34ºC (93.2ºF).
I'm running a single 190kv 63mm motor from DIY with a 10S5P, I'm about 80kg / 175lbs.
Here is the ride: https://metr.at/r/2hg3H
So basically my question is, is it normal?
My motor mount continues to become loose and vibrates on my trucks and I'm not sure what to do. I've put lock locktite/ thread locker on all the screws and have to keep tightening them. What should I do??
I'm sure this particular chain drive kit has been linked in a few various threads before -
My question is can i change the length? I can't see it in the description anywhere.
My mount fits belts that are 255mm long. Obviously you can shorten a chain, and these are 300mm - will these have split links or any thing like that already? How would i go about taking off a couple links?
Also, is the gear ratio alright? What would this particular ratio lend itself to? (14:27) My current belt drive is (15:36) which is quite a difference, running a SK3 245 on 8s.
Any insight form people more mechanical would be great, cheers guys
Fuck Everyone | Including Myself.
This is my First thread so please be patient with me.
..Hi? So this is my first thread and i would like some information and help if you're willing to give it. I'd like to build as fast of a longboard as i can, something that goes up to 30mph+.
So far i have purchased a few things, i'll list the most important.
- Longboard Deck.
- Caliber II Longboard Trucks, 50 Degrees.
- Orangatang Kegel 80mm Wheels.
- 30 Teeth HDT 5mm Pitch 11mm wide wheel pulley, 20 Teeth HDT 5mm Pitch 11mm wide motor pulley. The pulleys have already been drilled and connected to the wheels.
- Aluminium for my motor mount build, Which i plan to build myself.
- Transmitter and reciever. However i would like to build my own transmitter, so if you can like me a thread that teaches how to do that, that would be great.
I plan to create a 10S4P Samsung 30Q battery pack. Thus this will provide: 12,000mah | 60Amps.
I want to use this with dual Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6354-260kv motors. Which will provide: a total of 4720w of max power, each motor will has a max load of 70a and can run between 8-10s. Dual Vesc-X ESC
What do you think about this setup and can you recommend me a bms that would be suitable for this setup and why it is.
I just bought my first VESC and got it running... for about 25 seconds. After a lot of reading and research I figured out that my mosfets are overheating, according to the BLDC tool. Without even running the motor the mosfets are at over 110deg C. I used a temp gun and check all the fets and they were at about 22deg C. The below image is the temps as I breath on R1 (area). There is no way that my breath can elevate the temp from 112 C to 114C. What I'm guessing is that either the R1 value is wrong or somewhere in the software you can calibrate these temps. I'm mechanical engineer so I can build most anything but know very little about software. Can anyone shed any light on this or seen this?
The other day, some cat on here said he was planning to put a 10s5p on a board,
that's fifty batteries, the cell count alone complicates the whole build process.
There has got to be a better way.
I've been checking out LiFePo4, and it seems to be good tech.
The battery folks love LiFePo4.
They tell me,
the flat prismatic cells are a more efficient shape for a battery than an 118650 cylinder.
- but the cylinders seem way more popular.
They tell me,
LiFePo4 cells can have very high capacity,
- and I see 3.2.v 20Ah cells everywhere.
They tell me
LiFePo4 packs don't need a BMS,
- but I see LiFePo4 BMS being sold.
They tell me
LiFePo4 batteries are less expensive,
- and they sell them for less.
So why aren't you using LiFePo4 prismatic cells?_
Well, title sums it up i guess. In need of a VESC because cant find any in my region (Netherlands)
Or have to buy a (dreadfull) ESC
HI, I was ready for my build but then I looked closely at upgrading the batteries, from 6s to maybe 8s or 10s ( Zippy 5000mah ) I was afraid of it being much bigger and heavier but now I looked in to it and size wise its not so much difference. So if I go 8s 5000mah with a sk3 245kv motor that would work but if I go 10s it will blow my vesc? but is I want more power can I go 8000mah instead still use the same bms and rest of the electronics or what does the mah if I increase ?
This stuff has been sitting around for a couple of months so I figured I'd see if anyone wants it. Make an offer if you like something. Shipping is usually $8 in the US for anything of this size. If you want multiple items I will combine shipping.
I'm not trying to make anything on this stuff, just trying to find it a home and to keep from throwing it in a box....casue I need more crap in boxes right .
Vanguard Enclosure - $20 + Shipping
I had this printed a few months ago, just to see if I liked it. I ended up going with a different board, and am not a fan of split enclosures unless its necessary. I paid $25 to have it printed, plus shipping.
Electric Skateboard Motor 5065 280KV - $50 + Shipping
I bought this to use on a small double kick build, my first build actually. I ran it for literally 20 minutes. Too small for me, but if you have another one it would work great dual motor build. The sensor wire is inside the heat shrink I added to the phase wires. @torqueboards doesn't have them listed for sale anymore (hence to 260kv link), but I paid $75 plus shipping for it.
Hobbywing EZRun 150A - $65 + Shipping
I got this as part of a bunch of parts I bought, comes with the programming card. I have never run it, but just tested it and it works, but that's all I really know about it. It appears to be in good shape, the wiring is sound and its relatively clean. It powers up and will drive a 245KV motor I had laying around. New they are $100.
We all know that this is generally a no-no, but I did a little experiment.
Two unsensored bldc motors (same model/size/kv) to one unsensored esc worked when unloaded, but there was excessive heat and differences in rpm when run under load, which makes sense.
WHAT IF we tried one sensored motor and one unsensored motor connected to a sensored esc?
If I had these parts on hand, I would've tried this already. The unsensored motor (in a sense, the slave motor) should spin at nearly the same rpm as the sensored motor, even under load, if the load is evenly distributed.
Hi Im about to order my parts now and looking for both new and used ones shipped from EU, I live in sweden. Have a look at my build thread to see the wanted items. Thanks
I have a TB Vesc that is acting up. Currently running FOC and I can run low speed for a little while just fine but then it just drops the power completely...seems to reboot the vesc then start again. Any reason why I would hit an over current? I'm running Bat and Motor max at 70.
10s3p battery from the last US group buy (with BMS)
Vesc from TB (With Ack's firmware)
Enertion 6372 motor/mount
I can post my vesc settings if that would help. Any advice?
We'll be giving test rides with a production model of the Mellow Drive in Paris this weekend. Come one, come all.
I'm buying some remotes for my e-board. Since it's quite hard to get these remotes at a good price I decided to order more.
Still, don't know the final price since it still has to pass customs, it will probably be about €45 + shipping per set
I'm located in The Netherlands
Some facts about the remote:
Mini USB charging style
2 different ride modes
Please let me know if you want one
Edit : Shipping costs EU via DHL-parcel
I am new to all of this so i just start with my Question.
A friend of mine has a receiver a Brushless motor and a servo connected togehter to controll the torque
so my question is, is it possible to controll the servo with a remote with arduino and a nrf with 2,4 GHZ
thank you for your answers
Been busy this whole weekend to read up on builds, set-ups and whats minimally necessary to get your board of the ground.
So the concoction i came up with:
Battery: 8000mah 22V 15C - (maybe buying two in parallel)
Motor: Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6364-245kv
Wheels: 80mm (orangatang)
Board: 34" longboard (already have that)
Spur: 34 or 36
TX/RX: still undecided (tips are welcome!)
Just been wondering if this ESC is enough, because i have seen a lot of builds with 120A ESC.
I find I am using my electric mountain board primarily for pavement and loving it. Currently I have the off-road 8 inch tires and they are providing a very comfortable ride. Wondering what others have had experience with the MBS roadie tires. Have you felt a significant difference in acceleration or ride feel? I'm assuming I will get better mileage due to less resistance.
I'll be gutting my old board that I've had about 6 months, and building the Mark II. Old build thread http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/mark-i-lush-freebyrd-80mm-kegals-caliber-aps-190kv-6364-aps-mount-vesc-10s-lipo/7989
The enclosure design was done by someone on this forum i believe, but i can't remember who! They were designed for vanguard boards, but I thought they'd do for this one that i had made by Banjo board co. They were printed in halves and I'll need to join them using a solvent.
Any advice on connecting the battery/BMS at the top to the vesc at the bottom would be appreciated! Some kind of conduit drilled into the grip tape side or something?
I guess most of you that have a PPM remote use the control mode "Current without reverse".
Are there some which use the control mode "Current" (it's with reverse)?
Because when you do a hard brake the wheels start to spin backwards while your still driving forward. Then it detects that you are going in the opposite direction and starts to brake again. then spinning backwards and so on with a frequency of like once a second.
At the Nunchuk this is not the issue because you need to press a button to go reverse. But with PPM you don't have that. Or i could make that work with the steering wheel like with cruise control in my firmware mod. But i am trying to find a nicer way.
In my newest Version of the firmware mod 2.54 (not yet relesed) i implemented reverse for Watt control which has of course the same issues at hard braking as Current Control.
So i wanted to know if the community even needs it. I can imagine that EMTB with heel straps would like to have it.
I really like this guys work and have enjoyed watching his videos
Hey guys, is this the legit FVT 120a 12s? I'm not sure.... anywhere else that I can buy it reliably?...... If I do buy these ESCs, what are the basic knowledge of handling this and how do I reflash it? Need some help here Thanks in advance
Anybody have any experience using stepper motors to drive an electric board? I'm trying to build something that's going to go really slowly (1-2 mph) - and I'd prefer to drive the wheels directly, without the need for reducing gears.
Any thoughts, experience? Any suggestions as to specific vendors and/or motors?