hello, i would like to build a receiver to connect to the vesc, there are libraries to program it?
I need 30of them 3300mah and more whats your price, and are you willing to ship to croatia?
So im almoste there to my first electric longboard. There is only one more thing to buy. Connections cables. I read in differend threads about XT90, XT60, antispark and more. For example that using two XT90 connectors in your longboard build could end in blown up batteries. I ain't gonna mess with those cables! So i rather ask this wonderful community for help. That said, here are my 'important' specs:
Hxt to hx (Didnt found hx90. And i didnt found a Hxt to hx male and femal eigher, that would have made the next cable not required):
Antispark Loop Key
(Is that even antispark / do i have to make one myself?)
Is there any hope or would my system just implode in an instant ?
I'll be detailing my 2nd build here, more details and pics to follow
how do you add regenerative braking to an electric skateboard. I've heard you need a VESC but is it possible with an esc?
I bought a Trampa mountainboard with the objective of creating an E-MTB. I'm pleased to report that the journey from start to finish is almost complete, as I am only missing non-essential components (lights, etc).
I was inspired to do this project when I saw the amazing builds that @Nowind was creating. His direct-drive setup is the most beautiful mountainboard that I have ever seen (and I still REALLY want one!). Unfortunately for me (at least in this specific scenario), I live in Canada, and the currency conversion rate ensures that my bank account would be obliterated by international purchases. And so, I bought a 3d printer, and began my journey to DIY convert my new Trampa MTB into an E-MTB.
I went through a few iterations of just about every single 3d printed part, but I think I have nailed down the formula. I printed all the parts in PLA, which is very stiff, but can be brittle. Due to these properties, I tried to keep the load bearing parts relatively thick. So far, all the parts have held up extremely well, even after 100km and some minor offroading. I will start experimenting with other materials in the near future.
These are the front and back pictures of my wheels spacers. They hold the sprocket to the wheel. They are incredibly strong!
Failed print of 2nd part of the 1st generation motor mount. The infill network inside keeps the parts very light.
this is the completed 1st part of the 1st generation motor mount. it clamps on to the truck very easily.
I have updated and improved the entire motor mount assembly since these two pictures, and I will upload pics or videos of how they work as soon as they are printed. I am also going to adapt this system for 63mm motors.
Motor: 2x 5065 270kv
ESC: 2x Hobbywing MAX6
Battery: 2x Turnigy Multistar 6s 10,000mah batteries (in parallel)
Transmitter/receiver: I used my phone as the transmitter, but I am working on a remote now. Receiver is an Arduino Nano with custom code, paired with an HC-05 bluetooth chip
CHAIN DRIVE: gearing 4.9:1
2x #25 59t Sprocket
2x #25 12t Sprocket
2x #25 chain
3D printed motor mounts/wheel-sprocket spacers for SuperStar Hubs. Chain tension is easily adjustable at any time.
Top speed: 54km/h
Range: 24km (with a safe 20% remaining in the battery)
Motors: 2000w each (claimed by the company that I purchased them from)
Weight: 29lbs or 12.9kg
Most of the high cost of an E-MTB is unavoidable. The electronics, chain-drive, and the board itself get to be quite expensive. I am, however, pleased that I could save several hundred dollars by 3D printing all the parts that I needed to connect the conversion to the board (wheel spacers/motor mounts/electronics case).
I am going to add lights, as well as braided wire sheaths and zip-ties to clean up the wiring. This is what the build looks like so far!
Looking forward to feedback!
Text me at 813 785 8058 if your interested in joining us. I will be parking my Jeep a few blocks from the 1st light on the south side of the causeway. Look for my Jeep in the picture.
This is a video of what eboarding on the causeway is like:
Hey, is it possible to burn out halls because of reverse polarity?
Cause i got two 6374 170kv sensored motors. One from APS and the other one i bought a year ago or so from esk8.de...
Today i wanted to finish my MTB, but only one motor detected halls correctly. Then i tested the other one with my multimeter and found out that esk8.de has most stupid wiring ever seen (red is gnd... fuck-.-)
Then i got confirmed by this: http://www.hellray.de/tutorials-bedinungsanleitung-d-e-f/hall-sensor-configuration/ ... respect if you even can read it -.-
Now it seems broken, so the question still is the same, possible to burn out halls by reverse polarity?
After putting together my first eboard build, when I tried connecting my vesc to the BLDC tool it says connected for about two seconds then it reads "no firmware read response". I've searched around the forum for people with similar problems and tried their solutions but nothing has worked for me so far. If it helps, when I turn it on (with anti-spark key) the vesc doesn't blink at all, but my voltmeter turns on and reads 0.0.
Any help would be appreciated.
Don't have access to pics atm,
Here is the issue I need to replace my shaft on 2 Sk3 6364 213kv motors the parts are not available and have not been for a while do u think Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 6374 Series Replacement Shaft Set would work with a bit of fettling? THOUGHTS ANYONE
Hey guys, so the other day I rode into a little puddle of water by mistake , and since then the board just don't work and I have no idea what is wrong.
At first I thought it was the motor because everything seemed to work - the battery turns on , so is the vesc and the receiver and remote (all are in an enclosure) but I took the motor to a technician that said the motor is fine and now I have no idea what could be wrong . Did this happen to anyone ?? Please help!
I have a question to all you experienced eskaters . I have bought trucks (Caliber clones) and motor mount from http://diyelectricskateboard.com/. I have used thread lock and really tightened the screws on the mount. But after a while the screws come loose. I think it has to do with the constant vibration and the fact that the material of the trucks are quite soft. So my question to you is what trucks do you use and what motor mount to help with this problem?
Any help and knowledge would be much appreciated!
Can anybody send some good links where i could get quality hub motors (except diyelectricskateboards.com i know they sell them)
I prefer to build a single hub esk8
power switch on my board had been acting up a bit the last couple days, where it would take like 10 seconds for it turn on after it was switched on.
then this morning i noticed power was cutting out and in, intermittently, for like 5 seconds, then it went along just fine.
so...feeling kinda sketch about my board in general, was going to open it up tonight to diagnose.
but on the way back home from work, i forget about all this, and in the last leg before getting home, there's a slight uphill that's really fun to bomb up, but this time during hard acceleration the power cuts out. my center of gravity is set well behind the board anticipating the acceleration, and the sudden power cut throws me off at like 25mph.
heel of my hands are burnt off, both knee caps are raw, and left elbow looks like minced meat. been downing red wine and beer to manage stinging rashes and hurt pride of falling in front of a shit load of people.
had a helmet on tho, so noggin's fine.
not sure what the point of the story is, just wanted to share.
oh, that and i'm going back to loop keys until i can get a hold of some bullet proof anti-spark switches.
What are most of you running for tires and how long do they last? I feel like after 10 miles my tires are toast. They are the stock tires that come with the mbs boards. I ordered some other tires from chine that seem to be solid rubber and hold up great but are WAY out of balance. I mostly ride on concrete and a little gravel.
Hey guys, ive been working on this for a little while now (you can see my sketches are all MK6 ) and I think I have finished or have come very close to finishing the design. I will 3d print everything tomorrow as a test fit, if all goes well I will mill two out of alu 7075 (one for me and one for @psychotiller) once testing is done maybe I'll do something like a group buy depending on interest.
Thanks for reading!
Simple as that, shortly I'll be buying the 90mm flywheel clones from Build Kit Boards (@JLabs) and I just want to see if anyone has any opinions or advice to share. If no one chimes in I'll just buy them anyway
how does everyone package their cells or repack their lipos? planning repack my 5s 5000mah flighmaxs into 2 lines of ten and looking for options to repackage them??
Hey guys! I am trying to get rid of a VESC made by Ollin. It is the 4.10 PCB but I added the capacitor that is the only parts related change that is between 4.10 and 4.12, I believe it was to improve FOC but not sure. Firmwares and specs are all the same as 4.12. I used it in my electric scooter build and it was very space limited so the CAPs are in a different order than they usually are (see pic) they are 680uF 63V as the original ones. I would like 110€ for it including worldwide shipping. Payments by PayPal "for goods".
I might have another one but I dont have the cables and CAPs to it which I am planning to sort out next week so if you want two and can wait I can sell both
Now this just got me curious if we have any DIYers from Romania around here.
I only saw like 3 electric skateboard and they were all meepos .
10s5p vs 12s4p. The 10s5p has an increased capacity amp hours (time)... you can drive your board's VESC/motors longer. The 12s4p increases voltage but decreases capacity amp hours (time) you can run the board for.
So if you want higher top speed you go for 12s4p (48 cells) which will be faster and last shorter amount of time than a 10s5p (50 cells) battery pack which will be slower but last longer.
Is this all correct? I really thought about building a 10s5p battery pack because 10s balance chargers are out there which then let me ditch the BMS. I couldn't find any 12s balance charger that are still in production, there were a few like the Thunder I guess back about 6-7 years ago. I don't see any right now.
Did anyone else get a stock alert email for the turnigy motors mounts?
I got the email, but I went on their site to buy some less than an hour after getting the email and it says they are back ordered :/..... Did anyone get any or was it a mistake?
link to mounts: https://goo.gl/Z6tkvP
So I got tired of opening my enclosure all of the time to switch settings on my vesc. I searched around the internet and came across this mini USB connector.
Really easy to mount and pretty cheap through Amazon. It can be found here
Hello guys. This is my first build. I just took it out for my first ride this morning. The experience is great and I was happy like a kid.
Well, the happiness only lasted 25minutes.
I got three 3s1p 5000mah batteies connected in series. My motor is 6355 190kv from torqueboard.
I weigh about 180lb.
I fully charged my battery so each is 12.6 V when I left the house. I rode for 25minutes. 3.14miles on record and 14.2MPH topspeed.
Isn't that a little bit too short for 15A?
If it is normal with my setup, then how can I increase the ride length of my skateboard? I am planning to get another 3s1p 5000 mah battery and add that to the serie, will that help? Thanks
So obviously the 1st cell is bananas. But what about number 8, is it ok?
Is it dangerous to have a dead cell -- is there a fire hazard?!
Also I need to know my options from here ... Whats the best solution? Get a new 4S pack? Take the dead cell out and make it 7S? ... other ideas?
I have the Skyrc e8 charger and am wondering how to wire the balance lead when one cell is missing .. just leave out the 8th balance plug?
Thanks a bunch guys
Does anyone happen to have the CAD for the evolve GT trucks? Or at the very least, the struts? I am machining my own motor mount for a set of Evolve gen3 trucks, and I need to know the placement of the 3 mounting holes in the circles that are welded to the struts. Perhaps someone that owns this board might be able to measure this and get it to me? I need the center-center distance from the mounting circle to the 3 holes in the mounting circle.
okay, so this is my first build and I was hoping somebody could help me wiring the balance cables to my BMS. I bought the following components:
4x Lipo battery's from hobbyking (5s 4Ah) which i wired to 10S2P
my problem I'm stuck with is wiring the balance cables to the bms. correct me if i'm wrong but what I thought is also wiring the balance cables parallel as show in the picture
I hope somebody can help me:).
First Build - WEAPON X | Single drive 6374 190 KV motor | 10S4P Tesla Battery | FOCBOX VESC | Nano X V2 Remote | Comet Voodoo XL
Finally getting around to doing a build thread. Looking back, I think it would have been beneficial to start the thread before I actually started the build. Who has time to do a build thread once the ESK8 is done? All I want to do is RIDE!!!!!! It's not like I didn't have time while waiting fort all the parts... Well, actually I had not as much as you'd think, being a new dad just a month prior to deciding to get into this crazy and most satisfying habit. Well, it's raining this week, so what better time to throw this down?
First off, this forum is amazing. What a wealth of knowledge and people looking to help those wanting to get into this, and people passionately innovating and progressing this movement forward simply for the love of it! It took me about 2 months to gather, learn, and communicate before I had enough knowledge and parts to make this happen. A big THANK YOU to all those who were willing to answer my noob like questions and patiently guide me through this. As well as all those who sold me parts for fair market value, and got me on the road.
Lets start with the board. 2011 COMET Voodoo XL. This stick is a BEAST! I didn't weigh it, but it was by far the heaviest of my quiver. Did a custom grip job because otherwise I couldn't give it a wicked name. Chose WAEPON X because that was the name of Wolverine (or at least the experiment that created Wolverine), and he's a bitchin' Canadian Superhero, and so's this board.
Affixed to the bottom is some black Caliber 50's, 83 MM 75a Abec 11 Flywheels with some nice Red's Bones Bearings. Nothing too flashy, but the bearings might eventually receive an update. Used Enertion's motor mount.
Was able to source a Kaly 190 KV 6374 Sensored Motor from a gent in Vancouver along with the Nano X V2 remote for a decent Price. Bought a FOCBOX from @yummyblobs with ease. Never tried anything else, but so far really happy with this VESC. Have it set up in FOC and it's been ridiculously smooth.
The coolest part of this build IMO is the battery pack. This was designed and built to spec by a whiz who happens to live in the same city as myself. Big thanks to @RootedSuperuser. He happens to have a module from a D90 Tesla Vehicle and makes custom packs for Electric vehicles. His DIY E-bike is ridiculous. I met with him about a week into trying to figure out this build. He guided me into making some pretty sweet decisions that most first time builders would perhaps overlook. Like the benefits of having a good quality BMS. This build has a Bestech 10s BMS. Another 'parts for sale' purchase. And I'm glad because I want this pack to last, and last and last. Which it should because these cells are rated for 2000 charges! These cells are pretty much the same as SANYO NCR18650GA cells. Some more info:
We met a few times and he gave me a lot of homework and through that I was able to learn a lot more about what was all involved with the process of building a full ESK8.
Some battery porn:
This was some teaser pics he was sending while building the pack.
Completed pack. So so so many more pics available.
Let's just say he did a phenomenal job and I couldn't be more happy with the end product. These pics just don't do the battery justice.
All this was encased in an @Eboosted enclosure which fit everything perfect.
Once all was set up and attached, it was just a matter of throwing on some cheap lights, and programming the VESC. Big thanks to @i2oadsweepei2 for spending some time with me on the phone to get this thing in the initial stages of road worthy.
Ran perfectly first try. Obviously due to all the help I had and access to way bigger brains than mine. Have since got it tweaked, but nothing really messed up yet.
So. Damn. Much. Fun.
More pics and info to follow. It's late and I must sleep now.....
Carbon made motor mounts by water jet, Turnigys Aerodrive SK3 - 6374 brushless outrunner motors.