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Shakey start already upped boost

@Fizzy wrote:

What do I adjust to stop my motors from shaking on start up lve put the start up boost up already

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Found some 5" Pneumatics

@NickTheDude wrote:

Hey guys, I was searching the internet for some small pneumatic wheels and I came across these: https://www.grindhouse.eu/en/shop/rollen-alle/powerslide-road-warrior-air-tire-ii.html

A little pricey but their replacement wheels for some roller skates made by a company called powerslide. Thoughts? I've never used pneumatics and was trying to find them as small as possible for a street board.

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First time build! Never going to start if I don't post this

@curioussavage wrote:

Hi guys,

I have been reading the forum for a while and trying to figure out what my build will consist of but I have made little if any progress.

To avoid assaulting you with a wall of text Ill try presenting information in a structured way.

CuriousSavage's build

purpose


mostly cruising around for fun, maybe for commuting from the subway to work/home.

rider

~170lbs

location

SF bay area (east bay) - Its kind of hilly here but its mostly flat where I live. There is one place I might like to use it to get to that is up a hill.

wishlist

in order of importance:

  • easy to maintain - I would love a board with a charging port/bms so I can Just plug into a laptop charger.
  • range - rethinking this, I originally wanted really long range (15-20 miles) but to be honest I doubt I will be going on really long rides
  • speed - maybe 15-20mph top speed (not totally sure how fast I will be comfortable with ). Not really a daredevil so going really fast is not a priority.

Budget

~$400-$500

the lower the better (to keep the wife happy). But I understand that quality has a cost so willing to bite the bullet a little.

parts I have

parts I'm looking at

I'm not really set on any of these parts. To be honest I kind of got lost while trying to research this.
I know the battery I'm thinking of building only sort of matches my wishlist so I'm willing to consider other options. I looked at the space cell and the 6s4p epower pack. If I have complete plans I wouldn't mind building my own pack. I'm just not sure if that's a great idea.

Thank you in advance to anyone who drops in here.

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Motor Grinding Gears? VESCx Fault. Motor doesn't move, makes horrible sound

@trigger4point7 wrote:

I attached a video of my motor not working. It makes this horrible grinding sound and doesn't move. After a few seconds the fault light (red light) blinks a few times. I have no idea what the issue is. Any help would be appreciated. I just finished the build and still haven't rode it.

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YEP ESC programming help

@krloz wrote:

Hi fellow sk8rs
I am currently building a board with a couple o YEP 60A esc and I am having trouble programming them as i dont understand how some of the parameters influence on how the board drives. has anyone used this esc on their board and can tell me wich options you used and why. i am using the programming card.
thank you very much for the help

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Turnigy SK3 Motors For Sale

@wmj259 wrote:

Just wanted to post these on listing, so I can get them out of my hand once I get the delivery. I am not making any money on this.

You can pay when I get the motors. In the Mid-March.

All motors have keyways and silicone wires. If the motor has sensors the wire length will be 230mm. 12 AWG wire is used for the motor.

($55.37)ea 3- 6354 260KV
($85.17)ea 2- 6374 192KV with SENSOR
($86.67)ea 1- 6374 192KV with SENSOR AND EXTENDED 38.5mm shafts
($86.53)ea 1- 6374 149KV with SENSOR AND EXTENDED 38.5mm shafts

Shipping to you
Medium USPS Flat Rate Box ~$13.45
Large USPS Flat Rate Box ~$18.75




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Evolve GT Bamboo Street or DIY esk8?

@marcoluz wrote:

Hi forum friends,

I would like to ask for an advice.
I've been thinking to buy an esk8 already made... The thing is, for the cost of a diy I am not sure if I should buy an Evolve GT Street bamboo or if should spend the money on DIY esk8?

Material from protoboards:

Dual 2 vescs
2 motors 6355
2 motor mounts
Set of abec11 83mm
Antispark switch
Liion 10S 4P Samsung 20C each 2500mh made by me....
Costs for this diy it's going to be around 1200€. So I don't know if I should spend a little bit more and buy the GT.

I will appreciate your opinions guys!

Thanks

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Wanted modded GT2B controller and receiver

@Enigmacpl03 wrote:

Hey guys,

I am looking for a already modified GT2B controller and receiver. I received my nano x and out of the box the receiver does not work and they want me to send it to Canada for repair. I will do it but rather purchase something well known and have this as a back up..

Let me know what you have. I have PayPal ready.

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EUROPE MBS All Terrain Longboard Wheels

@ajaynagra wrote:

Just emailed them about the Group buy and just wanted to know the numbers :slight_smile:

@Mark

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Acquiring enclosure in UK/EU

@r0ymanesco wrote:

Hi, I'm in the process of building my first eSkate and the one part I'm having trouble sourcing is the enclosure. Does anyone know of how or where I might go about getting an enclosure for my board in the UK? I need something along the lines of these dimensions: Length: 40cm, Width: 15cm, Height: 5cm.

Thanks in advance

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Hi, Do any of you have torque curves for a 6374 motor?

@jonfmalm wrote:

I would like to use them to calculate my gear stresses.

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Motor shaft slipping

@mmaner wrote:

I've got a 6355 260KV motor, the shaft is slipping when u see torque. There is something sticking out if the bottom of the motor around the shaft, looks plastic but I've never opened up a motor before, so no clue.

Any ideas? Thanks for the assist folks.

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Anybody tried to mod the koowheel aka genesis hellfire?

@warlockboyburns wrote:

The controller looks a little too jerky for me.

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NEED HELP PLEASE- Taking apart a Turnigy SK3 brushless motor

@Tampaesk8er wrote:

NEED HELP! My friend created a keyway slot on my Turnigy 6374 motor, it so happens that after he finish the job, he placed my motor on top of a tabled that had many metal shaving from him doing his normal job. So, my motor got full of metal shavings all over and INSIDE OF THE INSIDE MAGNETS. I've watched so many youtube video on dissasembling the motor. Any way, i took out the 4 main screws around the barrel and i've pulled so much that only about a 1/5 of the 74mm only comes out. I've tried using two screw drivers to try and pulling apart the motor but no luck.
My question is, CAN SOMEONE PLEASE SHARE IF THERE IS ANOTHER WAY OF TAKING THE MOTOR APART? Pictures and videos would help if available.

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E-wolf | Loaded Vanguard (flex 1) | Space Cell 10s3p | Abec Flywheels 97mm | Nano-X | Dual 6355 190kV | VESC

@Schulerbible wrote:

Hi there,

Just wanted to present my (almost) finished first build. It's a half DIY based on the Raptor V1 technology. Parts used for this build:

Deck: Loaded Vanguard (flex 1)
Trucks: Caliber II 50 degree
Motor setup: dual Enertion 6355 190kV
Remote: Nano-X
Battery: Enertion Space Cell 10s3p
Wheels: 97mm ABEC 11 (78a)

Total weight: about 8.6 kg

Things to do:
Need to modify the cable length of the space cell, print a new riser with cable holder (only backside), exchange the green straps against black ones and heat shrink the bullet connectors.

The metal enclosure houses the two VESCs which are thermally connected via heat pads.

Enjoy, more pictures will follow ...

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VESC-X: Less range and a different voltage than battery

@lox897 wrote:

So here's the story, I'll try and explain everything in a list order so it might be easier to identify the problem:

  1. VESC X ARRIVED
  2. Soldered to 4x 3S lipo in series, and 5.5mm bullet connectors
  3. Setup in BLDC Tool
    Settings for step 3 setup:
    BLDC (no sensors
    Motor max 60
    Motor min regen -40
    Battery amp max 60
    Overall max amps 130
    Battery cutoff start: 44.4
    Battery cutoff: 43.2

  4. Ride, board works flawlessly and goes 45kmh

  5. One phase wire comes loose, resolder.

  6. Configure in BLDC with sensors
    Speed goes down to around 25-30kmh

  7. Remove sensors leave on BLDC: speed still the same

Firmware reflash: default settings, enable FOC, now speed is 10kmh.

Any ideas what the problem could be? I will send screenshots later tonight and I will measure battery output voltage. Cells are at 3.91 each

Thanks guys, hope I can get this resolved quickly so I can start riding. I'm thinking it could be my battery voltage cutoffs? Should I try charging?

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What would happen if I changed the motors? {Ultimate Evolve GT}

@VikasG wrote:

I've started a few topics and discussed with a few people over at the Evolve forums but I need to know what would happen if I replaced the current 140Kv Evolve motors with 200Kv ones using the same body and connectors. Would it work fine, break the ESC/motors, or have the motors run at a lower RPM?

I've done some research along with gaining information after starting a few topics etc. and here is the final build that I wanted to do with the board:

200Kv Motors: $100
Si3N4 Bearings for Motors: $50
38T Gears: $100
Abec 11 97mm Wheels: $100
10s4p VTC6 Battery: $350

Assuming everything works according to plan, the remote would still show speed correctly as it measures it based on RPM. There would be no noticeable voltage sag and the it will have nice speed boost to 32 mph (51 km/h). Basically a perfect electric skateboard.

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Would adding extra fishpaper spacer rings onto Samsung 25Rs positive sides increase reliability if plastic insulation rings are already heat-shrinked onto them?

@composites_r_awesome wrote:

Hi, community! Just to take it from 10 to 11 - would it really do Anything if some 0.3 mm plastic rings are already at present there?

Thanks!

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Group buy Oust bearings - again checking who's down

@Michaelinvegas wrote:

The Only Bearing Engineered Specifically for Skateboards
After several years of research Oust Inc. has developed a hybrid skateboard bearing named the "MOC SERIES".
These bearings meet all the critical factors for aggressive skateboarding. Unlike the common 608 bearings that are presently being used in the skateboarding industry which only require a radial load roll-out, OUST Inc. has designed a hybrid bearing which meet all the criteria for Static, Dynamic and Impact loads as well as bearing misalignment caused by torque.
These are side loads associated with carving, power slides, pumping and technical skating. The OUST MOC Series bearings are the FIRST and only bearing manufactured for skateboarding that achieve a matched coefficient of friction between radial load roll-out and tortional load roll out.
There are four bearings designed for specific skateboarding, the MOC 5 Street, MOC 5 Tech, MOC 7 Speed, and the MOC 9 Airr.... All four have the same structural design but there are changes in the cage, seal, ball grade and finish. The MOC 9 Airr... has also been strengthened and reduced in weight. Specifically designed for maximum performance in Technical, Street, Vert and Slalom!

  • One set
  • Two sets
  • More

0voters

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Group BUY-MBS ALL TERRAIN WHEEL 100mm - checking interest please vote

@Michaelinvegas wrote:

I'm looking to do a group buy for:

MBS ALL TERRAIN WHEELS

For now I would like to know....

How many sets you would purchase if I was able to get decent deal....

I don't know how much.... but I'll try to work my magic

  • I'd buy a set (4 wheels)
  • I'd buy two sets (8 wheels)
  • I'd buy three sets
  • back the truck up to my house :house_with_garden:

0voters

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Can't sync my nano x?

@jeffdemontign wrote:

I finally got my nanos and pro 3 for my boards but no binding tool, do I need it got it running on the computer but not from the controlers?

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Clamp/Bolt on Pneumatic Wheels

@mmaner wrote:

I really like riding pneumatic wheels, very comfortable and great for bad roads or semi-rough trails. But I prefer urethane for daily use. Just feels more natural and the carves are tons of fun. Why can't we have both?

I am trying to design a method either clamping or bolting on pneumatic wheels to the existing urethane wheels, preferably a tooless process. I think this would be fun because you could swap between a urethane ride and a pneumatic ride in seconds. You also get the added benefit of extending the wheelbase (over installing the pneumatic wheels in place of the urethane wheels) to reduce wheel bite without cutting on your deck or using taller risers/shock pads.

I started with the idea of a bell clamp, drilling a hole in the end & welding a 5.16-24 bolt in the hole. That would allow you to simply clamp the bell to the existing wheel, regardless existing wheel size and ride. Tooless, elegant. Unfortunately not many companies manufacturer bell clamps anymore and the ones that do want $50 + each. That's $200 plus the drilling, welding and incidental parts. Too much to make the idea feasible, IMO.

Next I thought about using a Coupling Nut in place of the current wheel nut. The all you would have to do is bolt the pneumatic wheel into the Coupling Nut and go. The problem with this scenario is that you have to keep up with the speed rings of the pneumatic wheels when not in use and you have to carry a skate tool to bolt on/off the wheels. I am also worried about the long term stress on the truck axle (bends & thread damage) with this method, thats a lot od down pressure on the Coupling Nut.

I am going to try this today when my Coupling Nuts are delivered. I'll post pics and my impression when I've completed the install.

Does anyone else have any ideas on how this might be accomplished?

Skike sitting on top of a 833mm urathane wheel as an example of what I am trying to accomplish...

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Two battery packs: 12s1p + 12s3p = 12s3p in parallel?

@appelton wrote:

Guys sorry about noob question but I would highly appreciate if someone could enlighten me if it Is even possible to run two battery packs with two bms's together in parallel?

BATTERY PACK nr1: 18650 12s1p battery pack + 60amp bms + battery status display + antispark switch + on/off button + charging socket.
BATTERY PACK nr2: 18650 12s2p battery pack with 60amp bms and nothing else.

Can I connect these two batteries in parallel ??
Can I charge them both at the same time in parallel through the first battery pack ?
How battery status would behave? Can it show battery status for both batteries ? or it is going to show status only for the first one ?

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Are there consequences to using a narrow belt with a wide pulley?

@eitan wrote:

Suppose my pulleys are 15mm, but I only have a 12mm belt.
Are there any practical drawbacks of using a narrower belt? (using caliber trucks and kegel wheels)
This is for a single drive system.

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How to fix motor pulley to shaft?

@Koto wrote:

Hi just wondering how to fix the pulley to shaft.
Is threadlock enough? do i need a bolt?
thanks

xX KOTO Xx

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Barcelona esk8 shop

@caustin wrote:

Planning in being in Barcelona for a week in Feb/March. Considering how to bring my esk8, and came across this esk8 ship that seems to rent decks etc. Are they on the forum or anyone in Barcelona that is familiar? Not great decks but skips the hassle of bringing or shipping mine.

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Two Turnigy-Aerodrive-SK3-5055-280kv-Brushless-Outrunner-Motor

@Byoboard wrote:

Specs.
Turns: 18T
Voltage: 6~10S Lipoly
RPM/V: 280kv
Internal resistance: 0.031 Ohm
Max Loading: 60A
Max Power: 1510W
Shaft Dia: 6.0mm
Bolt holes: 25mm
Bolt thread: M4
Weight: 369g
Motor Plug: 4mm Bullet Connector
Quantity : 2
$62 for both

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Two VESC BLDC Speed Controllers

@Byoboard wrote:

Bought these from Diy Skateboard. Don't need them anymore. Barely used and in perfect working condtion.

These have been modified to have 4mm bullet connectors, instead of the 5.5 they originally came with. $160 for both. $80 for one.
v4.12 Hardware (Latest hardware version)
Latest v2.18 for Firmware for FOC (Latest firmware version)
10awg motor wires.
Bootloader and Firmware Loaded. With Motor Detection & FOC Tested.

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Twin Drive MP83mm Hub Motor

@Byoboard wrote:

Motor specs:
60A peak 30a constant
50.4v peak
3000w peak
1500w constant

Almost new Hub motors. Asking for $240, Shipping included.

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Very Jumpy Motor

@Zoomy wrote:

Hi there, so I got my board up and running for the first time a few days ago. On the first day of riding I got half way through climbing quite a steep hill and all of a sudden all power cut off even though I have all slow cut off settings for temp and voltage... so I thought this was very odd. After jumping off the board I tested it with a bit of throttle and it worked as normal with no more problems.

On my second day of riding, I noticed that whenever I would climb a hill for more than about 10 seconds or so the board would loose power for a split second maybe once or twice but carry on.

Later that day I was accelerating very slowly from a stand still and similarly to before, it lost power for a split second, except this time it happened multiple times like it was stuttering. This was the first time it happened at a slow speed.

After checking over my configuration in the bldc tool and finding nothing that jumped out at me I gave it another shot but this time the cutting in and out was severe. It would cut in and out on flat ground even without me on the board! and additionally would accelerate hard or put on brakes randomly, both for a split second which made it impossible to even stand on.

If I just push off with no throttle it brakes randomly and with the board on the bench, the motor runs completely freely with no stuttering.

My remote doesn't seem to be the cause as through the bldc tool I could see that the throttle signal held very steady.
I've pulled apart the motor but to my knowledge couldn't see any signs of shorting.
While the board was on the bench I shock around each component individually to see if vibration was the cause but the motor still ran smoothly.
I increased the max input voltage which didn't fix it.

My setup is

vesc 4.12
gt2b flysky
6s lipo
alien power systems 170kv 3300w

In the bldc tool the window is cut at the bottom where I would normally be able to see the fault code if there was one. I'm planning on getting a bluetooth module so I can see if there's a fault code and also to look at whats happening when it stutters.

If anyone has any ideas i'd appreciate it because i'm lost.

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