Mounting 8" wheels, MBS or TRAMPA, on standard 8mm skate truck axles is completely possible. All that is needed is an axle reducer from 12mm OD to 8mm ID. Is there anyone who has access to a lathe and could make a set of these?
Before the summer starts, I have an idea of building my first electric longboard before the fall semester. My goals are to learn more about electronics and wiring as well as have a cool transportation around campus. Fast forward couple months of research and help, I created this longboard.
Specs: 6 compact zippy batteries, 3 in series and 2 in parallel so 9s with torqueboard motor 190 kV 6355. I have NOT go full speed with this thing since I'm 120 lbs and have ZERO experience longboarding but all I can tell you is this thing is fast.
Also in this summer I wanted to learn about 3d printing so I got myself an ANET A8 clone from gearbest. I has been the best decision I've made in a long time. Anyway I printed some enclosure and hinges and screw it on to the longboard. I want my batteries to lay flat instead of stacking on each other like I have on the picture but my parallel connect isn't long enough. SO if you got to this part, I have a few questions for you.
Where can I find a reliable BMS for this 9s2p battery that I have?
What charging port and charger do you recommend?
My plan for right now is to make charging easier and also make my longboard waterproof.
Huge shoutout to @Namasaki for being patient and and answering my questions.
Original Post: High Power 10s Lipo Battery Pack with BMS
My board: Frankenstein 1st Build
So, I've got the battery system wired up (5x2s 5300mAH 65C) and hardwired together. My BMS is set and ready for install. My Ollin VESC is also set (I haven't set it up yet with BDLC). I wanted to post up what I'll be doing and get the "green-light" from the experts before I start cutting and soldering.
I'm following "this" diagram, but having a hard time understanding it.
I'll need to cut the XT90 switch off the VESC.
Step 1: The black wire from battery one is going to B-. Soldering on. A second black wire is being soldered from P- to the black wire of the VESC. I'll need to create a connection through hardwired/banana connection.
Step 2: The red wire from battery 5 is being soldered directly to the VESC (also the red wire). I need to split this wire to the charge port. Which then get's hardwired to C-.
Step 3: Hardwire the balance wires directly to the wires from the BMS. The balance wire has three colors (red, blue, and black,) the extension has black, black, and red.
Do I just need to trace the black wire from the battery to the corresponding black wire on the extension, and then exclude it from the soldering?
Step 4: How exactly do I need to wire the charge port to the bms?
For right now, I think I'll have enough on my plate.
Some of you may know I made this enclosure for my board a week or so ago.
I made a mould for it to make them out of fibreglass.
It seems a shame not to use the mould again, would one of these enclosures would be of interest to anyone?
If not this one would it be worth my while making another mould for a different shape or size?
I've got a 10s4p, large BMS and two older enertion VESCs tucked in here. It's easy enough to drill and Dremel to put switches and plugs etc in and can be made in any colour.
I have contoured it to the shape of my deck but I used foam rubber to take up the inconsistencies in a different shaped deck.
The flange was left large on this one but could be cut down considerably.
The external sizes of the enclosure are 550mm x 150mm x 45mm + whatever size flange.
£45 for a bare enclosure in a solid colour plus postage at cost to wherever you are.
He i tested my eboard today and my breaks are kinda too strong and is not something linear. No matter how much i slide from the remote control it breaks so hard.
Any opinions for a smoother breaking ? I will post in a few h my settings but are the default from enertion.
anyone interested in a Central London meetup and group ride?
there are a few UK based riders in the uk-esk8 facebook group that will most likely be up for it, given enough notice and subject to wife/family approval.
please reply to this topic if you are potentially interested, if there is enough interest i will sort out a date and location
Did some data collecting and put together some charts comparing price-performance ratios of popular 18650 cells using prices from nkon.nl
Features charts for Capacity/Cost, Wh/Cost, Capacity vs. Current, Weight/Wh, etc
OK, so I have not found any other topics that are in line with my problem. The last assembly to my build is wiring the BMS for just charging. I'm bypassing it for discharge. It seemed fairly simple, but when I turned the power on after charging for a little bit, It started to smell super hot. I immediately powered down and saw that one of the tiny resisters for one of the balance wires was very hot and slightly charred. You can see in the picture below.
It is the 4th cell of my 8S battery series. It is an 8S BMS and here are the links to the batteries and charger I used.
I followed the guide for my BMS provided on the BMS website (excluding discharge) and I wired the balance wires according to tutorials on YouTube. (Wired 8 through 1 starting with the positive wire of first battery, skipping positive of second battery in series and wiring the last negative to B-)
It is surprising that it overheats when the charger is disconnected and the power switch is on because it should be wired for only balance charging and not discharging. The P- is left alone. I just wired the B- and C-. Also confused as to why it just overheats one of the series of resistors and not all of them. Is this a hardware problem or did I wire something wrong?
Arc Board was minding his own business.. but SUDDENTLY...
TUNE IN NEXT WEEK as the saga continues...
Like the title says, where could I find a suitable 12S voltage regulator/buck converter/UBEC that steps down the voltage to 12V? The reason I need it is because of a 12V DC to AC inverter for EL-wire.
I can't find any rated for such a high voltage, all i find is 40V max input.
Does anyone know how I could mount a 8mm bored pulley on my 6mm NTM Prop-Drive V2?
EU guys, what options do we have with 10s fanless charger with 4A or more here?
Just realised non of our vendors does have chargers in their shops! @fottaz @esk8 @okp (has a 2A) @ProtoBoards (are you still alive bro?) (sorry if i missed someone)
Do you all buy from oversea or do you have a nice local tip?
So there is a new custom ESC released. The guy who build it studied at MIT (Charles) that have been joining battle bots and dissecting numerous chinese ESC for the last few years. He developed Ragebridge earlier to control brushed motor and now he released a new version for the bruhsless Ragebridge brushless.
The link is below
Some details (taken from the site)
Voltage Input Range
20V to 90V (SimonK Signal Board)
Up to 60V (6FET and 12FET Power Boards)
Control Scheme Sensorless Block Commutation (SimonK Signal Board)
21KHz (SimonK Signal Board)
Synchronous rectification with regenerative braking default
Inputs 1ch R/C Servo, 1100-1900us reversible default (SimonK Signal Board)
Size 1.6″ x 1.6″ x 0.2″ (SimonK Signal Board)
2.75″ x 2″ x 1.1″ (6FET Power Board)
4.3″ x 2″ x 1.1″ (12FET Power Board)
Weight 1oz (SimonK Signal Board)
3oz (6FET Power Board)
7oz (12FET Power Board)
Aluminum heat spreader plate
Brushless RageBridge is designed as an expandable platform for the brushless experimenter. With a Signal Board and Power Board, a complete ESC can be made, but each half can actually be used on its own in your custom application!
The SimonK Signal Board is a carefully tuned variant of the open-source SimonK multirotor & drone ESC firmware. Originally developed for quicker response for aerobatics, it features many tunable parameters and is considered to be a more robust firmware for applications needing to overcome inertia, such as robot and EV drivetrains as well as large propellers. We tuned SimonK using our own robots and vehicles to start and reverse most sensorless BLDC motors reliably, with a mere 2.1% minimum duty cycle. Many settings are changeable using a AfroESC USB adapter (or similar USB flashing tools) on a dedicated 3-pin connector, communicating with the KKMulticopter Flash Tool. Programming instructions can be found in the User Manual and Tuning Guide.
Powerful 4.5 amp peak gate drivers and heavily optimized noise isolation, plus an opto-isolated input, enable you to pair it with very large output transistors to drive outsize loads. Up to 90v input voltages mean you can run higher than usual system voltages for maximum efficiency.
We recommend the SimonK Signal Board be used only in dynamic applications, i.e. loads which carry and change velocity frequently, and do not recommend its use in loads which require sensitive position or torque control.
The 6-FET and 12-FET power boards use the latest generation Infineon surface-mount flat-package MOSFETs on an isolated aluminum heat sink for maximum current throughput and switching efficiency at up to 60V maximum. We put enough bus capacitance on these boards to handle their continuous rated current forever at partial duty cycles, and 4oz double-sided traces complete the robust and reliable power handling package.
Both power boards feature onboard phase voltage sensing and two current sense resistors on the phase outputs. Mate these power stages to your own logic board through the common interface connector to create your own motor controller. Want something smarter than R/C? Don’t wait for us, build it yourself!
User Manual and Tuning Guide – SimonK Signal Board (Coming Soon!)
Installation Drawing (Coming Soon!)
SimonK Signal Board CAD Model
6FET Power Board CAD Model
12FET Power Board CAD Model
Brushless RageBridge Connector Interface Pinout (Coming Soon!)
Brushless RageBridge Custom Power Stage Example Schematic (Coming Soon!)
SimonK Signal Board Default Firmware (Coming Soon!)
SimonK Signal Board Schematic and PCB Files (Coming Soon!)
6-FET Power Board Schematic and PCB Files (Coming Soon!)
Would be interesting if someone tested this or create some analysis over the performance. Maybe someone with some extensive electronics skills might now some plus minus points.
I hope this hasn't been discussed somewhere else but I have searched and not found much.
Up until now I have been using two 6s 5A lipo packs in parallel for 10A with a single bms. Balance leads paralleled also.
I am now going to upgrade with a couple of 4S 5A packs to get a 10S2P 10A lipo pack. And as I have to change the bms I was thinking of separating the packs inn two. Each with its individual bms and paralleling only the outputs and charge inputs. Like in the diagram below. Sorry for my crappy artwork.
And now my reasons for doing this
I already have 2 10S bms. I was originally thinking of using only one
I should be getting double the charge current, double the discharge current (if I ends up using bms for discharge) and double the balancing current (this last is what I like most)
Each set of two paralleled cells will not be balancing between themselves though the thin balance wires, during charge or discharge. Only the bms balancing its own cells and the packs giving or taking power though their thick wires.
What I an not fully sure is if one of the bms shuts of charging or discharging before the other one( the are not synchronized so this will happen), what would happen around the parallel connections.
Any one tried or knows?
Thank you very much
The Abec 11 97mm flywheels seem pretty popular here, but I've run into a problem I haven't actually found anywhere online yet; I can't get them to fit. I tried them out with some Caliber II 50° 184mm trucks and a Bustin Machete 39" board, and they were hitting the sides of the board on deeper turns. What changes can I make? Would it be enough to add spacer(s) to the trucks? I tried top-mounting the board, but the screws didn't seem to fit; anyways, I'm guessing that's another solution? I suppose getting longer trucks like Psychotiller's 273mm trucks might also solve my issue? And then, of course, I can try to find a differently shaped board.
What do you guys suppose is the best way to fit the 97mm wheels? I might have to get a different board anyways since this one seems more flexy than I'd bargained for (in which case I've got a Machete as a new cruiser, which I still consider a win ). I'd prefer not to have to top mount a drop-thru board since it looks kinda ugly , so I guess I'll be putting more thought into my next board purchase. In general, though, will 184mm trucks like the Caliber II's be fine for the 97mm flywheels or would you guys suggest wider trucks?
I'm looking for any longboards parts in Paris. Do you know of any longboards stores there?
My interests are on the following parts:
- Loaded Vanguard (I prefer flex 1 or 2).
- 80mm Orangatang Kegel wheels.
- Caliber II Fifty.
I am currently building my first eboard and was wondering if the enertion trucks would work with the torque boards motor mount from diyelectricskateboards.com
Any help is greatly appreciated!
I'm going to get this 192 kv motor -- https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-6374-192kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?___store=en_us -- but I'm not sure on a battery.
I found this one -- https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-5s-20c-lipo-pack.html1 -- It seems good, but won't it surpass the max load rating on the motor?
Thanks for the help.
I recently swapped to my raptor 1 to 97 mm abec 11 wheels. I was curious if they make a solid replacement drive pulley to overcome the taller wheels for more down low torque.
Also is there a setting that adjust the gain of the transmitter to make the controller scale more realistically. I added some dead band and that helps but hoping to find a more linear acceleration of the nano x controller. The thing is awesome but I just find a quarter throttle is about all the throttle range covers. End points are set appropriately but seems like the range of the throttle is off. I come from the world of drones so the setting are familiar but BLDC is somewhat new to me.
The cheapskate that is great | method deck | 50 caliber trucks | single sk3 149kv | diy Enertion motor mount | 10s 5000mah lipo | Torque vesc | 83mm abec 11 wheels | nano x remote | tackle box :)
I live in Raleigh so we have plenty of hills and this cheap setup does not disappoint. Ive been having a lot of fun the last week with this simple setup and just wanted to share for the people that want a simple setup.
Just out of the box brand new ECU
Asking 90$+ 4$shipping
Reply or pm me If interested
-Slightly used battery with cracked case
I heard that. Maybe something was changed and whoever is selling them now they will run it. What's the story?
Used all terrain conversion kit
Wheels have 50 miles
Has belts pulleys bearings wheels tires, which are all fully functional.
Asking 150$ and I'll pay the shipping.
Pm me if interested
So I tried out my second charger and it again is only charging to 40 volts when I plug it in...I bought one of the 42 volt balance board chargers off of Amazon and as you'll see in the photo, it turns green and registers as fully charged...yet that is clearly not true...do these chargers have internal voltage cutoffs?? I'm lost...my BMS is wired properly and everythingAny help would be great...
I just got two new Lipos from Ebay. I dont have a voltage meter at home, but I do have an LED battery indicator which showed me 57% and 64%.
Problem is that my batteries came with a bullet connector and my charger has an xt60. I was hoping I could put them in series first and then charge them up, since I am going to put them in series and build my own charging adapter anyways.
Question is: Is it ok to put them in series when they have ~7% difference? Also I am not sure how accurate my 5 bucks led indicator is haha
Whats the drill here?
Thanks to all for the previous help with the motor mount issue.
However now, I have a new problem. After mounting the motor and getting everything tightened down, I noticed/heard/felt a metal grinding. Upon further inspection, this piece was grinding on the motor mount while i was spinning it. I tried readjusting the motor but the two prongs on the end of the piece are just long enough.
Do I need to keep this piece on the motor? Can I take it off? If so, how?
All parts never used:
VESC - SOLD
Enerton Remote - SOLD
Dual Hub Controller (with remote) $35
(example link of product below, that's not me selling it)
While the Evolve 97mm wheels look totally badass, they have a couple major flaws with them.
The hubs are center set. This combined with a wider contact patch leaves regular ABEC pulleys like the Enertion pulley sunken into the wheel a bit which means part of the teeth goes toward the inside of the wheel. This leaves the belt touching the wheel unless you space it out with at least 4 washers.
The 76A duro is misleading. This feels much more like 78-80A duro and is very noticeably rougher to ride than my 97mm 75A flywheels.
The biggest and most important flaw is that the thane formula is god awful. Mine chunked on the first ride
and someone on the Esk8 squad on facebook had this happen to them on their first week
re's are 2 pics, 1 of the 5 wires coming from the bms and one of the 2x 3s to 6s cable.
The 6s cable has a total of 8 wires with a red and black connected in the middle , how do I wire those up two the 5 on the bms and which ones do I leave out or connect together. I will be cutting the end off the 6s jst cable just need to know how to wire the 8 wires to the 5 on the bms